Dolly Jones
26/09/2009
HIS second outing on the Emilio Pucci catwalk and Norwegian designer Peter Dundas has no intention of dumbing down his take on it.
While his predecessor Matthew Williamson was occasionally accused by critics of not putting enough of his own stamp on the iconic label, Dundas was damned for quite the opposite last season – Pucci fans wanted more of what they knew and were shocked by his highly sexed, barely dressed autumn/winter 2009-10 muse.
But sticking to his guns will serve him well and will force his audience to understand what he’s trying to do. Tonight he promised us “today’s Pucci girl” – inspired by “summer, bold ‘Italianism’, a touch of Pirate, but above all, a mix of ease and precision”.
It began with black and white snakeskin jackets with laced seams and then chiffon stole the snake print for grey, white and gold single-shouldered dresses that were a maze of straps all over the back - or he smothered it on silky athletic shorts for Carmen Kass.
Bare flesh is best for Dundas, who topped explosive chiffon skirts with monokinis that spiralled around the body and even hung loose, flesh pink trousers low on the hips to show off high cut swimsuits underneath – teaming them with a blue leather jacket just in case the sun goes in.
The Pucci prints were there, encrusted in sequins for second-skin mini dresses with cutouts at the shoulder or taking out the entire back of a dress, but they were, says Dundas “guided by the house prints’ graphic movement and its use of colour - they play on bleeding the colours rather than containing them in outlines as if dipped in the ocean”.
Trapeze artist dresses had strands of marabou among the sequins and subtly built up shoulders, while backless full-length dresses and one strapless gown made up of layers of parachute silk were jaw droppingly headline grabbing. Dundas wants our attention and he has it.
SEE THE EMILIO PUCCI CATWALK ARCHIVE
While his predecessor Matthew Williamson was occasionally accused by critics of not putting enough of his own stamp on the iconic label, Dundas was damned for quite the opposite last season – Pucci fans wanted more of what they knew and were shocked by his highly sexed, barely dressed autumn/winter 2009-10 muse.
But sticking to his guns will serve him well and will force his audience to understand what he’s trying to do. Tonight he promised us “today’s Pucci girl” – inspired by “summer, bold ‘Italianism’, a touch of Pirate, but above all, a mix of ease and precision”.
It began with black and white snakeskin jackets with laced seams and then chiffon stole the snake print for grey, white and gold single-shouldered dresses that were a maze of straps all over the back - or he smothered it on silky athletic shorts for Carmen Kass.
Bare flesh is best for Dundas, who topped explosive chiffon skirts with monokinis that spiralled around the body and even hung loose, flesh pink trousers low on the hips to show off high cut swimsuits underneath – teaming them with a blue leather jacket just in case the sun goes in.
The Pucci prints were there, encrusted in sequins for second-skin mini dresses with cutouts at the shoulder or taking out the entire back of a dress, but they were, says Dundas “guided by the house prints’ graphic movement and its use of colour - they play on bleeding the colours rather than containing them in outlines as if dipped in the ocean”.
Trapeze artist dresses had strands of marabou among the sequins and subtly built up shoulders, while backless full-length dresses and one strapless gown made up of layers of parachute silk were jaw droppingly headline grabbing. Dundas wants our attention and he has it.
SEE THE EMILIO PUCCI CATWALK ARCHIVE
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